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Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing

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Trip Facts

Start/End: Kathmandu-Kathmandu
Destination: Island Peak
Trip Duration: 16
Transportation By Air
Best Season: March-May, Sep-Dec
Difficulty Challenging
Max. Altitude 6189
Group Size 2-10
Activity Trekking - Climbing

Overview And Highlights

Trip Highlights

  • Kathmandu City Tour
  • Scenic flight to and from Lukla 
  • Summit to Island peak at elevation of 6,187 meters
  • Breathtaking glacier views from the top of Island peak
  • Exploration of sherpa Cultures, tradition, religion 
  • Guided by more than 20 years of Expert, friendly and helpful local sherpa guide and porter 
  • Visit to Tengboche monastry, Everest view hotel

Island Peak Climbing is an enjoyable climb and also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. The peak is surrounded by a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summit of Nuptse ( 7879m), Lhotse (8,516m), Lhotse middle peak( 8410m), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar ( 8383m). To the east, rising above the Lhotse Shar glacier, is Cho polu (6734m ), beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu ( 8475m). To the south of the Imja glacier and icy flutings of Baruntse (7720m) and the Amphu peaks.

Island Peak Climbing would be suitable for a climber visiting the Himalayas for the first time or keen hill walkers with previous mountaineering experience using crampons and ice axe. Island Peak is a more technical peak than some of the other trekking peaks in Nepal, it starts with an easy scramble along a rock ridge to a glacier and above there is a steep snow headwall leading to a classic summit ridge. Main attraction of Island peak climbing are panoramic views of Everest 8848m, Nuptse, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Makalu, Baruntse and Ama Dablam. Island Peak can be climbed during two seasons on either side of the monsoon, spring (mid-March to May) and autumn (mid-September to November). It's possible to climb the peak during the winter but cold temperatures will present additional difficulties. Island peak climb trip combined with Everest three pass trek with Island peak, gokyo, valley cho la pass, Everest base camp with climb island peak.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1,300m/4,428ft)

Day 02: Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,184ft) then trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek

Day 03: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m/11,283ft): 5-6 hours

Day 04: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day

Day 05: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft) 5- 6 hours

Day 06: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m/14,300 ft): 5 to 6 hours

Day 07: Dingboche to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 3-4 hours

Day 08: Acclimatization: Climb Chhukung Ri (5,546m) and trek back to Chhukung: 3 – 4 hours

Day 09: Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp (5,200m/17,060ft): 3-4 hours

Day 10: Pre-Climb training on Island Peak Base Camp

Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit (6,189m/20,305ft), back to base camp: 10-12 hours

Day 12: Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3,985m/13,074ft) 5-6 hours

Day 13: Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours

Day 14: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 6-7 hours

Day 15: Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla and Transfer to your Hotel

Day 16: Final departure

Important Note:

If not really satisfied with above itinerary, we can design individualized travel plans based on your preferences.

Day to Day Itinerary Expand/Collapse All

Day 1 : Arrival Kathmandu

Food
Dinner
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1300

Upon our arrival at the Tribhuwan International Airport (TIA) in Kathmandu, a representative from Himalaya Trekking Team will pick up you and transfer to your Hotel.

 

Day 2 : Fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,184ft) then trek to Phakding: 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2652

After breakfast, we take an early morning flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. Upon our arrival at Lukla, we meet the rest of our crew members. After packing our bags then we begin our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla to Phakding. Overnight in Phakding. 

 

Day 3 : Phakding to Namche Bazaar (11,283ft): 5-6 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

After breakfast we walk through beautiful pine forests and then along Dudh Koshi River ending our nature-filled journey at Namche Bazaar. After walking for almost over an hour, we come across the glistening Mt. Thamserku (6,608m) on our right and also experience the serenity of pine, fir and juniper forests throughout our journey. If the weather is clear, we may even catch a glimpse of Mt. Everest peering over the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. We continue walking until we reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest and main trading centre of this region. This day we cross five suspension bridges, the last one also known as the Hillary Bridge being the highest. It is an uphill walk from Hillary Bridge to Namche Bazaar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar. 

 

Day 4 : Namche Bazaar (3,440 m/11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Today is set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that instead of being idle we stay active and move around even during the rest day. We can either stroll around Namche’s quaint villages and get acquainted with the Sherpas and their rich culture, or we can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region.

For trekkers who want to hike for a little longer, a hike to Khumjung village (5-6 hours) may also be an option. In the village we can visit the Edmund Hillary School and Khumjung Monastery (a monastery famous for housing the head of the Yeti!). Overnight in Namche Bazaar. 

Day 5 : Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m/12,694ft) 5- 6 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3870

After breakfast, we trek towards Tengboche. It is an easy walk from Namche to Phunki. Upon reaching Phunki, we ascend towards Tengboche, a village that houses the very famous Tengboche monastery which is the largest monastery of the Everest region. Located amidst the Sagarmatha National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site of "outstanding universal value”), it is draped with the panoramic 360-degree view of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku and is also the  biggest  monastery in the Khumbu region. We visit the monastery the same day at around 3 p.m. to witness a religious ceremony. Overnight in Tengboche. 

 

Day 6 : Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m/14,300 ft): 5 to 6 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4360

With the Himalayas as its backdrop, the monastery in Tengboche is in a perfect location to enjoy the beautiful Himalayan landscape. We visit the monastery in the morning and take pictures of the amazing landscape. Then we begin our trek by walking through lush forests of birch, conifers and rhododendrons on an easy path. This picturesque trail then dips down to Debuche, crossing the Imja River before climbing up to Pangboche (We can either walk in the upper or lower Pangboche trails). We are most likely to choose the upper Pangboche trails as it provides more pristine view of the Himalayas. We also visit the Pangboche monastery. From here onwards, the walk is fairly moderate as we enter the Imja Valley. The valley gradually unfolds as we approach the confluence of the Lobuche River. We descend into the river and begin the climb up to Dingboche. On arrival at Dingboche, we are greeted by a beautiful array of fields enclosed by stone walls to protect barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold wind and grazing animals. Overnight in Dingboche. 

 

Day 7 : Dingboche to Chhukung (4,730m/15,518ft): 3-4 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4730

Dingboche is a summer settlement and here the great peaks of Ama Dablam, the ridge of Nuptse-Lhotse, Tawache and Chalotse surround us. We begin today’s trek to Chhukung by walking through stone-walled fields, Imja Khola valley before walking in glacier moraines. On our walk, we will be surrounded by Lhotse and Ama Dablam mountains. Later, beyond Bibre village we see Island Peak soaring above us. The trail ahead is intersected by icy streams. We reach Chhukung, a small settlement in about half an hour from Bibre. From here, directly across the valley is the fantastic Ama Dablam and the Amphu Labsa mountains. Overnight in Chhukung.

 

Day 8 : Acclimatization: Climb Chhukung Ri (5,546m) and trek back to Chhukung: 3 – 4 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5546

Today is another day set aside for acclimatization. Climbing Chhukung Ri should help our body adjust to the high altitude. Chhukung Ri is a peak located directly above the Chhukung village. The climb to Chhukung Ri involves some easy scrambling near the summit. From the top, we can look directly across the valley for a fantastic view of Ama Dablam and Amphu Labsa peaks. We descend back to Chhukung to spend the night. 

 

Day 9 : Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp (5,200m/17,060ft): 3-4 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
5200

The trek to Island Peak Base Camp is on a fairly steep trail. First, we climb south then turn east to the main line of the valley. We then walk on a winding path below the southern flank of the moraine from the Lhotse Glacier. Next, we continue walking on a pleasant trail along a streamside. The route to the Amphu Lapcha lies to the southeast. A crisscross route through the Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines leads to a wide valley flanking the SW side of Island Peak. Overnight at Island Peak Base Camp. 

 

Day 10 : Pre-Climb training on Island Peak Base Camp

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge

We begin our pre-climb training today after breakfast. Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the proper ways of using climbing gears such as the ice axe, climbing boots and crampons, harness, ascender, etc. The training will also include using ropes to go up and down. Although it is not mandatory to have prior training for Island Peak climbing, we strongly believe that some training experience will boost your confidence and climbing skills to increase the chances of scaling the summit as well as to fully enjoy the experience. Usually we will be climbing on rock surface for up to around 5770m. After that, we climb on ice and use ropes when necessary. However, the use of the rope and the length depends upon the season and the crevasses. We can spend the rest of the day hiking to high camp and back or resting for the next day’s climb. Overnight at the base camp. 

 

Day 11 : Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit (6,189m/20,305ft), back to base camp: 10-12 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
6189

We wake up early today at around 12 to 1 am and have our breakfast before beginning our climb. It is important we reach the summit before noon because in the afternoon the strong winds in the highlands might become a barrier for a successful summit. The trail moves up beyond the base camp for several hundred meters before striking off the steep hillside. Initially sandy, the path soon turns to grass before becoming boulder strewn. As we climb up the hill, we will see that the slope narrows and the trail enters a steep rock channel. We climb the rock gully. This is not difficult, but there are several short rock steps to climb before we emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. The guides will fix a rope when required. A steep snow slope leads us onto the summit ridge. Both fixed rope and man rope will be used during the climb for safety. We use fix rope after successfully climbing on rock. The length of the rope will usually be of 350m. However, the length depends on the time of the season and the crevasses

There are two newly formed crevasses which are approximately 3 and 4 meters long. We will be using ladders to cross them. After enjoying the summit views, and taking pictures, we descend all the way to Island Peak Base Camp where some of our crew is waiting for us. We celebrate on our successful Island Peak climb. 

 

Day 12 : Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3,985m/13,074ft) 5-6 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3985

Today’s walk will be a much easier as we descend to the lower altitudes. Following the same route back through the wide valley of Khumbu Khola, we pass through the beautiful Sherpa villages Orsho and Shomare. We can also take a different trail to visit the Gompa in Upper Pangboche, which is believed to be the oldest in the Khumbu region or take the regular trail to reach Pangboche. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kangtaiga to the east, the Kongde range to the south and the Imja Tse River flowing through the wide fertile valley. 

 

Day 13 : Trek from Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

From Pangboche we retrace our steps down to the Imja Khola and up through the forest to Tengboche. If interested, we can also visit nuns at the Tengboche monastery. After lunch at Tengboche, we continue through the hillside blanketed by rhododendron and juniper trees. After crossing the bridge over the Dudh Koshi River, our trail follows the Dudh Koshi gorge descending rapidly through the pine forests before reaching Sansa. We keep a lookout for wildlife such as mountain goats, snow leopards, colorful pheasants, etc., while passing through the forest. After passing a chorten, we reach the army camp at Namche Bazaar.  Overnight in Namche Bazaar. 

 

Day 14 : Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 6-7 hours

Food
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2680

The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk cautiously as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail becomes m ore level and natural. After our arrival in Lukla, we stretch those sore legs and recall the experiences of the last couple of weeks. Overnight in Lukla. 

 

Day 15 : Fly to Kathmandu from Lukla and Transfer to your Hotel

Food
Dinner
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1300

We catch an early morning flight to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. After reaching Kathmandu, we can take a rest or do some souvenir shopping. If you want to visit any place of Kathmandu we can do today. In the evening we have  farewell dinner in the evening to celebrate the climbers’ successful summit of the Island peak. 

 

Day 16 : Final departure

Food
Breakfast

Your adventure in Nepal comes to an end today! A representative from Himalaya Trekking Team will take you to the airport, approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight.

Service Includes

  • Private Arrival and Departure transfers on both domestic and international flights.
  • Hotel in Kathmandu on a twin share bed- and- breakfast basis as per the itinerary.
  • Full board meals while trekking (breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner) entire Island peak climbing.
  • Properly boiled drinking water, tea and coffee while on trek.
  • Accommodation in tea house or lodge while on Island peak climbinng.
  • Accommodation in Tented camp while on the island peak climbing.
  • All Domestic flights and airport tax as listed in the itinerary to start the Island peak trek.
  • Private transportation to and from the starting and ending points of the trek as applicable.
  • Island Peak climbing expeditions Permit Royalty and other government tax.
  • Climbing Clinic Course at base camp.
  • All required Personal and Group Climbing gear: LESPOTIVA EVA climbing boot, EXPED down filled mattress, Black diamond crampons, ice axe, zoomer, harness, figure of eight, carabineer, helmet, climbing rope etc.
  • Professional local experienced Trek Leader / Guide trained in Wilderness First Aid.
  • Island peak climbing trip map.
  • Well-experienced Climbing guide with all his allowance and expenses.
  • Proper Insurance of all staff including porters.
  • Well Sleeping Bag
  • Climbing Boot
  • Jacket during the Climbing Time
  • Certificate of Island Peak Climbing
  • Farewell Dinenr

Service Excludes

  • Nepal entry Visa fees, your travel insurance of any kind.
  • International Airfare.
  • All Drinks and main meals in cities.
  • Tips and Items of personal expenses like hot shower, battery charge, telephone, beverage drinks etc.

Altitude Graph

Route Map

Additional Information

The following gives you a general idea of the personal items that you can bring for the trek. The personal items are of individual interest, and choice. The most important fact that one should keep on mind is that one should have enough clothes to tackle the cold weather in the Himalayas.

In a supported trek, heavy items are carried by porters or yaks and personal belongings that you may need for the day like money, water bottle, rain gear, camera, sun cream and toilet paper etc. should be carried by yourself. So you are briefed to pack items in two different bags.

All the equipment's like Base camp tents, kitchen accessories and all the group climbing equipment's ( climbing rope, ice screw, somw bar, ice hammer) is provided by the company

Climbing gear

The Climbing equipment are much more expensive to buy. So, please let us know if you want to rent. The Following equipment's are essential for climbing Island peak.

  • 1 Pair plastic shell mountaineering boots with high altitude liners
  • 1 Pair of crampons (steel, no aluminum).
  • 1 Alpine climbing harness.
  • 1 Mountaineering axe with leash (sized properly for your height)
  • 1 Ascender (right or left handed as appropriate)
  • 1 Belay device (Black Diamond ATC or ATC Guide are good options)
  • 2 D-Shaped locking carabiners 
  • 2 Non-locking carabiners
  • 1 Pair expedition style gaiters (ensure fit over your boots)
  • Neck gaiter
  • Ski goggles (optional) 
  • Climbing helmet (optional)

General

  • 4 seasons Sleeping bag (Optional/we can provide one if you need it but is to be returned after the trek)
  • Duffel or Rucksack bag or suitcase Daypack 
  • Down Jacket (Optional/we can provide if you need one but is to be returned after the trek)

Upper Body - Head / Ears / Eyes

  • Shade hat or baseball cap - some people drape a bandana down the back of their head and then put a baseball cap on to hold it in place. This can be a flexible alternative while keeping the sun off your ears and neck
  • Warm wool or synthetic hat that cover your ears
  • Balaclava - lightweight, thinner variety
  • Glacier glasses-100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe). This is to protect your eyes from the stronger rays of the sun due to the thinner atmosphere which can cause a painful condition known as snow blindness. Regular sunglasses are not sufficient. If you wear prescription glasses, speak to your doctor about prescription glacier glasses, perhaps with transitional lenses
  • Headlamp - Black Diamond and Petzl both make several good ones. Make sure to bring extra batteries and that they are lithium batteries so that they will last in the colder temperatures. These are indispensable for getting around at night, reading, etc. so, don't go cheap here
  • Some people like ear-muffs; These are optional; a good hat, balaclava, and hooded jacket should really be sufficient, but this is a personal choice for some people (optional)
  • A neck warmer is another piece of gear for extra warmth if you feel you will need it (optional)

Hand

  • 1 pair liner gloves, thin wool or synthetic, useful alone on mild days or as a layer inside other gloves / mitts for additional warmth
  • 1 pair warm gloves (heavier fleece or wool)
  • 1 pair shell gloves or mitts; Gore-Tex is preferred for keeping hands dry
  • Instant hand warmers are always nice in a pinch, but really shouldn't be necessary on the trek. Bringing appropriate hand protection as recommended above, should be sufficient (optional)

Core Body

  • T-shirts (2)
  • Light and expedition weight thermal tops
  • Fleece jacket or pullover
  • Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
  • Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
  • 2 women sports bras, Synthetic, no cotton!

Lower Body – Legs

  • 2 pairs nylon hiking shorts - Quick drying type, not cotton!
  • Underwear, stay away from cotton (4)
  • 2 pairs lightweight long underwear - capilene or other synthetic
  • 1 pair soft shell pants - synthetic, full zip from top and bottom preferable
  • 2 pairs trekking pants, preferably that zip on/off at the knees so they double as shorts
  • 1 pair hard shell pants. Waterproof / breathable, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best. Should zip from the top and bottom - this makes it easier to put on over boots without getting undressed should the weather change once you are underway for the day
  • 1 pair cotton pants (loose jeans/khakis)
  •  All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large puncture resistant plastic bags

Feet

  •  4 pairs of liner socks, synthetic or capilene
  • 3 pairs heavy weight socks to be worn over liner socks
  • 1 pair light weight socks, a good option for the lower / warmer parts of the trail
  • 1 pair light to medium weight water proof hiking/trekking boots. Ensure a good fit with layered socks and you have worn then before to get used to it (otherwise you will get lots of blister)
  • 1 pair hiking gaiters, good for keeping dust and rocks out of your shoes / boots as well as keep your feet dry as necessary (Optional)
  • 1 pair sandals (Optional)

Medicines and First Aid Kits

(Please note our guide will also carry the first aid kit bag during the trek. However we still recommend you to bring your personal first aid kit as well)

  • Extra Strength Excedrin for altitude related headaches
  • Ibuprofen for general aches and pains
  • Immodium or Pepto bismol capsules for upset stomach or diarrhea
  • Diamox (commonly prescribed as Acetazolamide) 125 or 250mg tablets for altitude sickness. Please discuss with us before starting to take this medicine
  • 1 small personal sized first-aid kit with blister treatments such as mole skin, band-aids, some waterproof tape, anti-infection ointments, etc. Your guides will have more extensive medical gear, but you should have the basics for general use

Miscellaneous, but Important!

  • Passport and extra passport photos (4 copies)
  • Airline ticket (Please make a copy and leave on at our office in KTM just in case if you need to change the date of your)
  • Durable wallet / pouch for travel documents, money & passport
  • Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck and some are now being sold with a cord already attached.
  • Handy as it avoids you from having to stop and look for it
  • Sunscreen. SPF 40 is recommended and should be relatively new since it loses its' effectiveness over time
  • Pocket knife or small Swiss Army type
  • Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
  • Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag, hand wipes, and liquid hand sanitizer, towel, soap, etc
  • 2 bandanas.

Optional

  • 1 pair adjustable trekking poles. Although these are listed as optional, these can be of great assistance to people who may think of themselves and generally clumsy or with bad knees, ankles, etc, especially when going downhill (Optional)
  • Favorite snack foods, no more than 2 pounds (Optional)
  • Paperback books, cards, mp3 player (there are a couple of stops where you could recharge. Avoid players with moving hardware as it may not function
  • Remember, keep these items light weight (Optional)
  • Binoculars (Optional)
  • 1 light weight point & shoot camera or 1 large SLR. Digital cameras are ok, but you must keep the batteries warm when not in use (Optional)
  • Hydration bladder with drinking tube and tube insulator (Optional)
  • A pee bottle for men and pee funnel for woman, some swear by them to avoid that chilly late night trip (Optional)
  • 1 small stainless steel thermos (Optional)

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Trip Reviews (1)

“Enjoy Himalaya Trekking”

My friends and I just finished our 20days trip to EBC and summited Island peak. It became one of best time in my life. All I did was just enjoyed trekking in the most popular trail in the world and the rest of the trip Obb and Uttam took care for us. While Obb is a trully gentleman, Uttam is kindly and funny guide. He is always behind your back and support anything you need. We 've already have a great time.

Thanks you guys, you made my trip remarkable! Himalaya Trekking Team is the best choice to explore Nepali trekking!


TripAdvisor Review Link


https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g3374769-d10063964-r438252397-Himalaya_Trekking_Team_Pvt_Ltd_Private_Day_Tours-Kathmandu_Valley_Bagmati_Zone.html#

 

2016-11-18

Le Hang

4th May, 2022


USD 2420 Per Person

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